Altai Tavan Bogd National Park

The National Park was our first stop on the tour prepared by Blue Wolf Travel.  We ultimately spent two months in country but touring Western Mongolia with Canat was the for us and I do not think anyone could have done a better job of showing us the true culture and character of this region; a once in a lifetime journey.
As I approached the herd, all the camels watched me with indifference.  I was definitely more excited about seeing them than they were me.
The snowcapped Altai Mountains reflected in Hoton Nuur (Lake).  Just on the other side of those peaks is China.
An ancient Trukic stone face statue.  It is also a marker for a grave.  Its poor head fell off and it took three of us to lift it and put it back in place.
These kind gentelman were nice enough to catch us .  They were pulling arm-length fish out of the lake by the half-dozen.
During lunch, this absolutely amazing and wizened character just appeared on horseback, asked us for our fish guts, put them in a plastic bottle, tasting them first, and then rode off into the distance.  Surreal.
The wildlife was also interested in our leftovers.  This Kite dove for a piece of fish lying in the .  For this one shot, there are 1,000 great attempts of just grass and .
An ancient petroglyph of a horse and hunter that might very well have been a portrait of the man we just encountered.
Since trees are a finite resource, dung is the fuel of preference for cooking.  The only problem is that everything cooked with it is left with a very peculiar aftertaste.  Let’s put it this way, Rasa could’t finish her tea.
Entering the park was just the beginning of our amazing encounters.  The real highlights for us are coming next week, especially helping the nomads move from their winter home to summer camp.

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Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia

Glad to have escaped immigration, we arrived in Western Mongolia to discover that the dominate culture here is Kazakh and probably what Kazakhstan used to be like before it became rich and modern on gas money.  It is a shame that their traditional culture was scrubbed from everyday because it is really amazing to think that Bayan-Ölgii is one of the last places on Earth where you can hold a Golden Eagle or help a nomadic family move but mostly we just did a lot of driving these first couple of days here.
This was our first view of Ölgii Town as we flew in by plane from Kazakhstan.  At first, we thought it was a , not the provincial capital.
This is one of the main streets.  are a serious traffic problem here but they are also great garbage disposal units.
This is the road out of town with a sign showing the route distances.  It was a nice effort but as soon as we were over the hill, there was no road to follow and hence no way of knowing if we were going the right way.
We were lost and met a river that could not be crossed.  All those great road signs in town did not do us much good out in the countryside.
Go that way!  But we just came from that way and did not see a single road where we could cross the river.
This is the way to travel here.  We have seen many camels in the Middle East but these two humped beauties were a first.
We were just happy our Russian Jeep was working and not broken down in the middle of nowhere like this poor guy.
Gob smacked with the sheer desolation of the area (and the cold) we just tried to keep clean without the use of hot (baby wipes turned out to be an indispensible travel item in Mongolia).  We could not wait to get into the Altai Tavan Bogd National Park to see the same landscapes but with lots more trees, , snow and sheep!
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Ust-Kamenogorsk

This was our last town in Kazakhstan and it was interesting to see how different it was here compared to the rest of the country.  Spending two days (almost three, thanks to ) sitting in the airport, we noticed that ethnic Russians made up over 90% of the population and there was no Kazakh culture here at all.
Excited to see an old Russian mining town, we were met with a constant, freezing drizzle and spent most of our time watching it from our room.
Our second and third days were spent in the airport waiting to see if our flight would go.  We stacked our bags and made camp.
After the first flight was canceled due to weather, the sun came out and we had one of the most days of the trip.  Go figure.
The square as you enter Main Street was vibrantly painted.
Here are the older parts of town, dating back to the settlement days in the mid-1700′s when mining was booming.
Just an apartment building but I guess the beautiful sky and sun impressed me so much I had to throw this in.
Even the kids were out having fun after being cooped up for three days.
The day we finally did leave, immigration held us and the plane for 2-hours because they thought we needed a to enter .  It finally took a call from the US Embassy to clear the matter up and overcome that Russian mentality about needing papers to move on to our next destination:
Olgii in Western Mongolia.

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Astana: Living a diplomat’s life

The reason why we decided on the day-long train ride to Astana over Almaty is to visit our friends who recently were assigned to the US Embassy in Astana.  It was an inspiring moment for and me to have a glimpse of diplomatic life.
The blue dome is the home of President Nazarbayev and beyond is his legacy, which he built in the middle of nowhere all in the last 15 years.
At the top of the Bayterek Tower, you can place your hand into a mold of Nazarbayev’s to hear music and a guiding light showing you the divine way.  The security guards turned it off while I was there because I’m sure they are tired of continuously hearing it.
Another surreal aspect of Astana is visiting all these fabulous buildings and then having a whole 5-star to yourself.
The entire city is not a carnival.  There is a great selection of cultural and art shows to choose from.  Here is the travelling Buddy Bear exhibit.
One of the strangest sights though is looking out at endless steppe and seeing all these world-class architecturally designed buildings and parks that just do not seem to fit in.
Considering that Astana is one of the highest hardship posts (remember that winter averages -40°F), the life of a diplomat does not seem so while living in these fully paid luxury apartments.
This state-of-the-art toilet is another perk of being a diplomat.  It even has a heated seat that massages; standard in every FSO house.  We heard Rasa shriek from across the house when she hit the red button.
It was a great week to spend with our friends, especially for Rasa who discovered the CLO position at the embassies (She will talk more about that in her blog).  Next we flew to Ust-Kamenogorsk, which is the departure city for Russia, China and our next country Mongolia.

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The 25-hour train ride

Normally, you can buy your tickets online but since Rasa and I are cheap we waited until arriving in Kazakhstan to get our tickets from Shymkent to Astana.  Despite there only being 3rd class tickets left (and the cramped, stuffy beds) we really enjoyed the ride and having a chance to interact with the locals, especially getting to drink fermented mare’s milk.
Rasa and I arrived at the station about an hour early and waited for the train and sunrise, while sneaking some pictures in between patrols.
We were adopted by several families on the train.  They made sure we tried their fermented mare’s milk and soggy pasta with ’s fat.
This was the corridor for our 3rd class car.  It was cramped and very stuffy.
We could not even sit up in our bunks; they were only for horizontal use.
The toilet drained right on to the tracks and the conductor would lock the door at stations so you could not flush.  Very considerate I think.
I was so happy to see the spring tulips blooming.  It was like this for the first couple of hours out of Shymkent.
It seems every Russian landscape worth photographing has to have electoral wires and pylons in it.
The biggest problem on the train was getting harassed by the police for taking pictures and then having to delete all my photos because of security concerns (thank you Scandisk for recovery software).  Luckily, this was not so much of a problem in the Fantasyland capital of Astana while we were with people who have diplomatic status.

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