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Artisanship

Posted on February 29th, 2008 in Middle East,Syria by robjkentjr

Syria is completely devoid of American corporations and this has allowed the many family owned businesses here to continue thriving.  Given the tradition of a father passing his knowledge and business down to his son, some of these shops have been around for five generations.

 


Picking up from the cemetery last week, here is one of the men who chips away at those tombstones.

 


One of the items we decided to buy before leaving is an ‘Ud.  We befriended this shop owner and asked him to custom make us one.  We could not pass up the chance to have a beautifully hand made instrument for only $50.

 


A big reason why there are so many expertly made handicrafts is that the locals still use them in everyday life.  Shops are not mass-producing these items solely for tourists.  This man is making the final changes to his pounded-brass teapots.  It seems every house in has a set of these.

 


Some of the most beautiful pieces have been the brass work.  Here is a shop owner’s son adding silver inlay to a cabinet door.  When this piece is finished, it will also have accents of copper inlay.

 


Here is an artisans’ table for etching brass plates, which is another item commonly found in people’s homes.  I want to buy one of his hammers but Rasa will not let me.  She says we already have enough tchotchkes.

 


In , there is a whole district for buying gold.  You buy gold jewelry here by weight and do not pay for the workmanship.  We are having him custom make our wedding rings in a traditional oriental design.  This goldsmith’s family came here after fleeing the 1914 Armenian massacre and have been in business ever since.

 


Not only handicrafts profit from this passing of knowledge, the food does also.  This baker and son are making little pizza-like breads.  Probably the most popular family owned restaurants though are the dessert shops.  You just have to taste it to know the recipe has been refined over a 100-year time span.

 

Next week I will show you some of their products and tell you how you can buy them if you are interested.

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Old Town Damascus

Posted on February 24th, 2008 in Middle East,Syria by robjkentjr

Having been in Syria for 4 months now, we have thoroughly explored Old Town .  Through us continually getting lost in the maze of back alleys, we have found some interesting sights.

 


This is the main market street of Souq al-Hamidyya.  The only day you can casually stroll is Friday, when everyone is at prayer.

 


This is the other end of Souq al-Hamidyya, which empties out into a courtyard surrounded by Roman Columns.  Just beyond the columns is the Umayyad Mosque

 


Getting all the goods to and from market is a hassle.  Here is Bab as-Saghir, one of 11 entry points into the walled portion of Old Town.  With all the traffic, it can sometimes be 40-minute walk from the center just to catch a cab outside the main gates.

 


This is typical of the wood and mud houses built in Old Town.  People just prop them up as they begin to crumble.

 


Here is another great example of the alleyways.  You can see the wooden beam and stone construction methods, which people still use today.  Some houses span the alleyway and connect to courtyards on the other side.

 


Everywhere you walk, there are also ancient wooden doors.  I always wonder what it would take to ship this home and use it as the front door for my house.

 


In the small courtyards around the mosques, you will usually see gravestones packed in.  This is an example of a rather large cemetery.  Just outside the wall, the tombstone artisans still chip these all away by hand.

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