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Palmyra Ruins

Posted on January 29th, 2008 in Middle East, Syria by robjkentjr

We just got back from Palmyra, which had a lot of interesting ruins and bored locals.  Supposedly the best site in Syria, this trip overall was a let down for us because of the people in the city.

 


On the second day, we awoke at 5:30 am to the sandstorm in the left picture.  I took both shots from our balcony, but the right one is of the gloomy weather before the storm.

 

Even though the ruins are worth the visit, we reluctantly decided to spend another night in Palmyra because if we left, we would not return for my sunrise pictures.  Compared to the rest of Syria where the locals have treated us like guests, here we were nothing more than tourists to them.  Like every other tourism dependant economy in the world, Palmyra has kids begging for money, relentless hotel touts, restaurants charging double for bad food, deceitful taxi drivers, and shopkeepers that chase you down the street (beware of the date man on the corner).

 


Amazingly, about 30 minutes before sunset, the storm broke and the skies cleared.  I made Rasa run to the ruins for pictures before the lighting changed.  It made for a spectacular sunset because of all the dust still in the air.  This picture is for Pat, thanks for motivating Rasa to use her camera.

 


This is the completely restored amphitheater.  The inside is well worth paying the $1.50 admission to see.

 


Since the sandstorm kept us cooped up in our room all day (watching BBC!), we decided to explore the ruins by moonlight.  The floodlights helped a bit also.  This is the Monumental Arch, designed to hide a 30° turn in the colonnade.

 


The next morning, I finally got my sunrise pictures.  This is the Funerary Temple at the opposite end of the colonnade.

 


This is the entrance to Valley of the Tombs and in the distance you can see the Qala’at ibn Maan Citadel.  The Towers of Yemliko in the foreground are burial chambers stacked with coffins.  Of course, to see any of the actual artifacts from these tombs you need to visit the museum in Damascus.

 


This oasis once supported the ancient city.  Near the mountain base, a hot spring runs down the hillside in a channel irrigating all the date palms, olives, pomegranates, apricots and nut trees.  Walking through this labyrinth of paths it is easy to imagine how it looked in 200 AD.  I do not think anyone has rebuilt these mud brick walls for hundreds of years.

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Learning Arabic

Posted on January 25th, 2008 in Middle East, Syria by robjkentjr

We are 80 hours into our lessons and Rasa is speaking Arabic about 90% of the time in our class.  For me, well, let us just say I need to study a bit more.

 


Here is a sample of the Arabic alphabet.  After two weeks of class, we were reading this.  We could sound out words but not quite understand them.  As of now, we can read a bit faster and ask for things in a store or order food without a problem.

 


Here is the main office and Muhammad, who is one of the admin staff.  This is where I use the internet, which is a lifesaver because the cafes do not let connect my laptop there.  Although, with US sanctions blocking Skype, PayPal, and even downloading Google Toolbar the internet is not nearly as fun.  I just don’t see how banning Google helps Lebanon though.

 


This is the waiting area with satellite TV!  The door is always open for us when we need our BBC fix.

 


Besides language lessons we have been trying to learn about the culture too.  This includes food and luckily, Maher, who also works ate TLA, loves to cook.  When he invited us to his farm in Deir ez-Zur, one of our most important lessons was learning the fine art of kebabs.  These are eggplant kebabs with chicken.

 


The other big thing we needed to know was how to shop, asking how much and understanding what they say.  Rasa and I love shopping for handicrafts so we decided to practice our bargaining skills with something a bit smaller, like pickles from the shawarma man.

 


Most importantly, what would any cultural lesson be without knowing how to pour a proper cup of tea or coffee?  There really is a method to it.  Just remember to drink your water first if you have coffee.  If you drink the water after, it appears you are cleansing your palate and this is insulting to your host.

 


Here we are at the Umayyad Mosque in Old Damascus.  You have to love Rasa’s outfit, she looks just like the Jawas from Star Wars.  Seriously though, one of the most interesting parts of our lessons has been learning about Islam.  For Rasa and me, this topic and politics takes up at least three hours a week of questions.

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