The Faces of Zambia


17 Jan 2012 | Magalela Village, Zambia (-17.3014, 26.0948)

From a photographer’s point of view, the subjects are amazing and I love walking around the village taking pictures of each interesting person.  Personally, this is only possible because I know each of them, or at the very least have spent some time talking to them.  But these are the people of my village, in which, we are now considered family.  Having lived there a year, Rasa and I now stare with the villagers when someone new passes through.  We are no longer the ones being stared at.
All very interested in what I am doing.



One attribute that stands out to me is how happy-go-lucky the Zambians are.  I have seen events that would have made me give up and cry but not them.  They shrug it off and move on.  I would guess not so much because they do not care, but more because they have so much hardship in life and this cow dying, dam breaking or even the death of a child gives them pause but does not debilitate them.  They still have to wake up the next day and carry on with tending to the crops or cows, otherwise the family starves.  So I think they take a lot more joy from the simple pleasures of their lives.
Passing the time with a smile and blade of fresh grass.
Initially, a stranger might not think Zambians are so happy or even friendly for that matter.  I cannot even count the number of times I have met someone only to have a blank, stern stare in return.  At first, I was put off but I eventually realized people are just blown away with a foreigner greeting them in their local language.  So it does not mean much if you get this.  Just try again, with a smile, and wait for a response.  You will see the light come on, the face soften, and then the hearty reply with a bright smile.  Usually a compliment on speaking fluent Tonga will also accompany the return greeting.  But the hospitality and friendliness is there, you just have to melt through that cold sternness.
Two sisters, who are sternly posing in the makeshift village wedding studio.
There is that special moment between stalking an unknowing person with the camera and when they see you pointing a big white lens at them.  It is the perfect blend of acting naturally and smiling because they caught you taking their photo.  The emotional expressions are complex and intriguing but also beautifully captivating.  At the time, it is just one shot in 20 but when going through the series, deleting the rejects, you see it; that spark bringing the photo to life.  Weeks later, I remember that day and girl, happy to know I preserved that moment we shared when she caught me taking her photo.
That perfect moment of inocence and delight strikes me as .
Unfortunately, for every yang, there is a ying that balances that positive encounter out.  Without fail, when there is a large group of people around (that makes great photo opportunities), there is always someone who has had a too much of a time.  These showboats cannot keep out of the lens and must be the only subject in sight.  Normally I take their photo, they demand to see it, and I move on but for big events like a wedding, it is harder to avoid them.  The fact that alcohol is so cheap here does not help either.  You can buy 60ml (about two shots) of hard liquor for 20 cents and this causes one of the biggest social problems in the villages.
This is who we call a Gilly Gilly Boy; a bit too caught up in the festivities at a celebration.
I have diverged so let me get back to my opinion of the Zambians as photo subjects.  Despite their initial stoic façade, those hints of curiosity, joy, surprise, and even belligerence shine through when they are comfortable with you.  The camera is unknown to the villagers.  They are not afraid of it, ask to see their photo after each shot, pretend to be Jackie Chan, demand a copy, or throw at you because you stole their soul.  It is a moment in time capturing their pure emotion.  Nothing better could be a travel photographer’s subject, except maybe sharing every day with them.
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Disclaimer: Expressed herein are my personal thoughts and feelings and do not represent the views of the U.S. Peace Corps.


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One Response to The Faces of Zambia

  1. Pierre-Philippe says:

    Enlightening comments about how people are perceived and perceive others according to their background and cultures.

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