May 28, 2010
I think I have literally drunk more milk tea today than I ever have in my life. So far I have had eight cups and it isn’t dinner time yet. We had a number of social calls which all required multiple cups of tea. Our plan today was to learn about hunting with eagles but it ended up being so much more than that. I woke up earlier than anyone outside the family, mostly because I couldn’t breathe. I am apparently allergic to something in the house. It could either be the fox pelts, the eagle, the dung fire, or perhaps the other furry animal that nobody seems to know the English name. My money is on the smoky poo fire used for cooking. Anyway, so I was awake from not being able to breathe and this is when I was offered my first cup of milk tea of the day along with baursak. I was already on my third cup by the time the rest of our group was awake and at the table. I then drank an additional cup while everyone began to fill their cups.
In a milk-induced stupor, I began chatting with the eagle.
After breakfast the eagle hunter brought his bird outside for us for pictures and put on his hunting outfit. They explained that winter is the main time for hunting, hence the heavy fur coat and hat. During winter, the feed the eagle very little and so they are quick to hunt and attack the first animal they encounter. The hunters will go out for long hours with the eagle perched on their forearms. I tried holding the bird and I could barely raise it; granted I am not very strong. I couldn’t imagine carrying the eagle on my arm for 8 hours at a time and also riding a horse at the same time.
Trying my best to hold up the heavy eagle.
Later on in the day, Nurbol unexpectedly informed us that he needs to go to another household in this area. Lauren, a Fulbright scholar who was living in this area and is also an eagle hunter, found a donor to fund a cleft palate corrective surgery for her host brother. She had no way of contacting them as she was out of town, so we went out to find the family to give them the news.
We first went to the town about 12k away to stop and visit the eagle hunter’s daughter. We then learned that the family that we were looking for was in town that day. We started asking around and through this found his son-in-law. The son-in-law said that the child was actually in Olgii right now having surgery. We waited a bit longer to speak to the grandfather. Apparently, an American group had come to town on a medical mission and successfully performed the surgery. I’m sure his journey is not over yet. He is 7 years old and still cannot speak so I would imagine he will need some time with a speech therapist. But, it is still very good news and the family was pleased that yet another group was willing to help their child.
After speaking to them, we then went back to the daughter’s house. She sang and played the dombra for us and I had another two cups of tea there. On the way back towards the house, we stopped at the eagle hunter’s family burial ground and they said some prayers. While here, we enquired about the eagle hunter’s father, and shockingly he is still alive. We were surprised mostly because the man looks about 120 years old but we figured he must have been in his 70s. Even more shocking was that the eagle hunter is really only 14 years older than Bobby! They then offered for us to go and meet his father, who is a well-known eagle hunter in the area and we of course accepted. Meeting the father, one would think they are brothers. They look nearly the same age; if anything the father looks younger.
I had one cup of tea and followed the proper etiquette of placing my right hand over the cup and thanking the server. She looked a bit surprised that I was finished after my first cup (really my 6th of the day). Moments later, Nurbol then commented that my cup was empty and offered more tea, which I replied no thanks and then the proceeded to pour it anyway. At this point, I thought I would vomit if I drank another drop. I drank about half and then experienced some lovely bile belches.
Digesting milk tea and spending time with the locals.
When we finished all of our social rounds and finally got back to the eagle hunters home I walked inside to put my bag down and saw the big cauldron of milk boiling away for our afternoon tea. I ran out, willing to hide anywhere to avoid drinking another drop…at least not until the multiple cups that are sloshing around in my stomach have settled. I found out they needed to go and fetch some water so I enthusiastically offered my professional water scooping services. They took the vehicle to their water source, which was just a tiny flow of water and Bobby and I told them we would walk back. This gave me the opportunity to digest some of the tea before the inevitable next cup arrives. While walking over the hill to reach the house, children from the only other house around ran up to meet us. They were very cute and curious little kids. They were shy and just were observing us.
We walked back to the house and I was then ready to have my cup filled yet again. The tea today reminded me a lot of the forced feeding in the Philippines. We hated it when it was happening but we remember it so fondly now. They do it out of kindness and hospitality. Even if it is something that I don’t particularly care for, I am touched by the offer and try to accept anything offered to me with a smile. And so, at the end of the day I gladly accepted my 9th and final cup of the day.
