Helping set up a ger in the Baga Turgen Valley.
May 25, 2010
The family has been awake since 3 am preparing for the big move. A few of the men left on horseback to herd the animals towards the summer pasture. The rest of the family gathered the rest of their belongings and began to load up the old Russian truck. Even some of the weaker animals were thrown on top of the vehicle; the newborn, injured, ill, and also the family cat. It was a very strange and cute symphony of meowing and bleating. The last step was to board up the doors and windows and at around 8 am, we all set out for the 46 kilometer trip to the summer pasture. Families make the seasonal migration for survival. Firstly, there is no plumbing or wells for nomads. The only source of continual snow in winter is up in the mountains while elsewhere is more of a frost. The families are able to gather snow and melt that for their water source. During the winter there is still a small amount of grass; frozen and puny but it is still something. Once these pastures are depleted and the snow begins to melt the family is then able to move to the summer area by the lake. The new grasses have already started to grow and it gives a chance for the grass in the winter camp to recover. There isn’t any ownership of the land; it has become common knowledge which pasture is used by which family.
A sheep diligently guarding the newly erected gers.
Despite the trip only being a short 46 kilometers away, it took most of the day driving to reach their camp. We did have a long break for lunch to eat some fresh yogurt and help comb the goats for the cashmere harvest. We had the typical bumpy journey along with crossing some rivers and one rickety bridge. As soon as the family arrived, they made quick work of unloading the truck and getting the gers erected. The first step was to clean a giant wheel that had many holes running along its circumference. They tied decorative ribbons which also helps keep the top of the ger in place. They then lifted this wheel with a large stick in the air and we put fencing around it forming a circle. Then, long wooden poles that have a bend and string at the end are inserted into the holes in the wheel and tied to the fence. Once all of the poles are in place layers of fabric are then layered on top of the skeleton, beginning with a water proof plastic followed by a felt insulation and finally the white outside layer
It only took about an hour to set up a ger but still a few hours to get the household in order. It was remarkable to enter the ger for the first time. The ger appears to be such a humble structure from the outside but is shocking explosion of color, tassels, and elaborate decorations on the inside. Once all of the gers were up, everyone gathered in the senior family member’s ger for milk tea and baursak. We were given the seats of honor at the head of the ger and on slightly elevated land. The family asked if we could take a full family portrait tomorrow. I still cannot get over how much people enjoy having their pictures taken here.
Today was truly a remarkable day. I am so thankful that our plans had changed so much and led us here today. One thing after another seemed to happen to have us departing on a day that we never planned. If it hadn’t worked out that way we would have missed the stunning weather (which is just now tolerable) the cashmere harvest, or the summer migration. Even our driver and guide said that they have never accompanied a tourist to set up a ger before. I am so grateful; I showed my thanks in the Mongolian way by splashing some of my apricot juice on the ground as an offering of thanks.
